The rest of the setup

This guide is primarily designed to help you build a cast iron draft tower for your kegerator.

However there are a lot of people who instead want to start with this tower and build a kegerator around it. I’ll try to get as specific as I can about those steps without getting too far into the nitty gritty.


There is a lot to be said about a fridge. You want one big enough to hold your keg, but also sized right to fit in your area. This can be as simple as finding a big enough dorm fridge, or as complicated as this incredibly well researched thread on homebrewtalk about fridge sizing. The only easy answer is to buy this towerless model from Edgestar and use it as your base.

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Keg couplers


You’ll need a keg coupler “tap” to get beer out of your keg and into your lines. Pick one from below based on the kind of keg you have.
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Ball lock coupler for homebrew kegs.
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Pin lock coupler for homebrew kegs.
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Those last two are only for homebrewers, so get the first one if that’s not you.

CO2 lines – this is the same tubing as the beer line, just for consistency’s sake. You will want around 5 feet of line for the co2 and 10-12 feet for the beer line.

10 ft of 3/16 beer line

CO2 tank – This keeps the keg carbed. 5lb and 10lb tanks are the two most common sizes. Go for the 10lb one, because it is cheaper per lb to fill than the smaller one, and it also means you will have to get it filled half as frequently.

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CO2 regulator – this controls the CO2 pressure to the keg. There are models that have 2 gauges (one for keg pressure and one for tank pressure) but I suggest you save a little money and just get a one gauge version. The tank pressure gauge is somewhat like using your car speedometer to know when you’ve hit a wall – it will work, but it’s too late by the time you find out.

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