Assembly Guide

TOOLS

Buy any tools needed when you buy parts in order to save time.

    1. Either a pair of channel lock pliers or a pipe wrenchScreen Shot 2015-12-04 at 3.29.33 PM
    2. keg faucet wrench to tighten the faucets onto the shank. Screen Shot 2015-12-04 at 3.29.51 PM
    3. Electrical tape (optional, but recommended)
    4. Screwdriver for hose clamps – Tip – if you get one of the double-ended ones with replaceable tips, then you can actually use it like a socket to tighten down the hose clamps!

Screen Shot 2016-04-29 at 9.00.26 AM


 

ASSEMBLY

Assembling this is pretty easy, here you go:
•Take the flange off of the shank. it is a stainless piece that looks like a skirt. For this build it doesn’t fit.
•Thread the brass locknut onto the beer line and then the iron bushing. The flat side of the locknut should face the bushing, and the threads of the bushing should face away from the end of the beer line.
•Affix the shank to the tap line. Use a stainless hose clamp to tighten the hose on the barbed fitting.
•Attach the faucet to the shank and use the keg wrench to tighten it down.
• wrap the tap shank with a few rolls of electrical tape just on the inside of the rotating collar. The purpose of this is to make the shank a reasonably tight fit in the bushing so that air can’t flow through. That will keep your beer cooler and keep humidity out of your tower.
•next put the shank through the bushing and affix it with the brass locknut. tighten this down now, because you won’t have much of a chance after this.
•next comes the elbow. Thread the bushing into this, but don’t worry about tightening it too much. It will be easier in the next step.
•thread the elbow into one of the ‘sleeves’ of the tee. Now you should have a bit more purchase to tighten the bushing with a pipe or channel lock  wrench. You don’t need this to be super tight – you want the tap to be in the right orientation and the connection to be tight enough so as to not move under normal use.
•now is the time to follow the same steps for the other side of the tee, starting again with the faucet and working your way back.
•with both faucets attached, you now have 80% of the finished tower!
•thread the nipple onto the tee, and then thread the floor flange onto that. To tighten the pipe threads up it is easier if you have the base attached to something. What you do here depends on your end mounting surface.

IF YOU ARE MOUNTING DIRECTLY ON A KEGERATOR TOP OR A FRAGILE BAR SURFACE

•Temporarily bolt the floor flange to a piece of wood so that you can tighten the connections between the floor flange, pipe nipple, and the tee. You don’t want to crack a marble bar top or overstress your kegerator top by tightening pipes with it. Once the fittings are tight, unbolt the floor flange and then attach it to your surface.

IF YOU ARE MOUNTING INDIRECTLY, OR ARE MOUNTING TO A RIGID SURFACE

•Bolt it on! Tighten away. This is the easier way to mount the tower.
Either way: you don’t need to get crazy tightening this. The purpose is to make it tight enough that it won’t accidentally rotate while in use. Aesthetically it is nice if the bolt holes are either in line (12,3,6 and 9 O’clock) or 45 degrees offset from that, but it will work 100% as well if the bolts are somewhere else.

Note on attaching methods.

There are a lot of different places that people want to mount this, so you need to figure out what is ideal for your situation. Hex-head machine bolts are generally the easiest, but carriage bolts are also viable, and all-thread with nuts on both sides is also a possibility. Lastly, I have used wood screws before and simply made a decorative ‘cap’ out of either a nut or a sawed off bolt head. Even though this is a big, heavy piece of iron you still need it to be securely attached to your counter. Often, people (especially while drinking) will pull on a tap and you don’t want it to rip out in their hand. Use bolts whenever possible, and make sure to use washers on the inside in order to spread the weight. If you are mounting this directly on a fridge then make sure to find out where the coolant lines are or else you may destroy your fridge before your first pour. Here is a good walk-through showing how to find coolant lines and mount to a mini-fridge.

 

Once you have the tower attached to your counter/bar/whatever all that is left is to attach your keg coupler to the end of the line. Regardless of the type of coupler you have, it should have a barbed fitting that needs to be attached to the beer line with a hose clamp.

 

Lastly, it may seem like you have way too much beer line – you don’t. Most people run too little line and then end up with really foamy beer. Here is a page on how to balance your system. Learn that and set your co2 pressure accordingly.The biggest reason home kegerator setups have foamy problems is because they don’t have enough line in their system.

By now you should have a properly mounted tower, the right amount of beer line, and you should be ready to go! Put your keg in, let it cool down, and start pouring!